The Great Inn of Nicosia

The Buyuk Han, which translates to the Great Inn, is an ancient travellers inn located north of the island’s capital and whose vast fortress walls have undoubtedly been privy to a wealth of fascinating medieval tales.

Built by the Ottoman’s in the mid 16th century following their conquest of Cyprus, the Buyuk Han was part of a network of inns built across the island for wealthy merchants to rest overnight in relative safety. Whilst war was waging, business remained central to the economy and livelihoods of locals and invaders alike and these inns were a crucial part of every day life. The Great Inn was constructed on the orders of Mustafa Pasha, the military commander who led the invasion of the island, and as such is testament to its importance.

In ancient times the merchant traveller would have entered the two-storey Buyuk Han through either the east or west entrance and into the square-planned open courtyard where he could leave his horse or donkey, or even camel, to rest in one of the many stables. Housed between impressive archways, this architectural layout remains fully in tact to this day.

Two symmetrical stone stairways to the northwest and southeast corners of the courtyard take you to the upper floor where several further arches frame the entrance to each guest room. These rooms were deliberately located off ground level and were designed with only tiny windows to protect the wealthier merchants from thieves.

The barrel vaulted roof to the building has curious hexagonal chimneys with wedge shaped covers indicating hearths. It is likely that weary travellers in each of the 68 rooms were able to warm themselves their own fires. This was definitely the place to stay. In fact the room that sits over the main entrance is larger than the rest and its door, when opened, extends all the way to the gallery. Maybe this was reserved for Mustafa Pasha himself.

In the centre of the open courtyard is a lovely little mosque or masjid that sits on six marble columns with a fountain for pre-prayer ablution, providing the full package for any Ottoman traveller.

Today the Buyuk Han is only one of two inns on the entire island that retain their original structure despite being used as a city prison under British administration during the 19th century, as well as in later years as a hostel for destitute families. After a crucial ten year restoration programme during the 1990’s it remains one of the most important architectural works of the Ottoman period and one of the finest buildings in the capital. The sympathetic restoration has retained not only the original layout but its wonderful ancient ambience.

Today the Buyuk Han thrives as an arts and cultural centre with several galleries and workshops occupying the lower stables and upper guest rooms, together with courtyard cafes and souvenir shops. It’s definitely the place to pick up authentic handicrafts including pottery, paintings and carvings. It is also the hub of many social activities. On a warm summer’s evening you can sip home-made wine whilst listening to live music or watching traditional folklore dance.

The Buyuk Han is definitely a must-see for anyone visiting Nicosia. It is an ancient oasis in the heart of the hustle and bustle of the island’s capital for both locals and tourists alike. As in days of old, this is still a place where you can come to rest and relax, soaking up the atmosphere before wending your way back into the city.

And for those wanting to soak up even more culture, we would recommend coupling a visit to the Great Inn with a stop-off at the 17th century Gamblers Inn just down the road.